Skin Advisor
The research behind the Skin Advisor
Every question, every ingredient tip and every "see a doctor" warning comes from the guidelines, studies and datasets below. Here is everyone whose work we learned from, with their licence.
48 ingredients · 132 studies
Clinical guidelines and safety rules
American Academy of Dermatology — Reynolds R. V. et al., J Am Acad Dermatol 90(5), 2024
Used for: Acne ingredients (benzoyl peroxide, adapalene, salicylic acid) and when to see a doctor
Licence: Journal article (cited, summarised in our own words)
National Institute for Health and Care Excellence (NICE), UK
Used for: When to send someone to a dermatologist (urgent / refer / consider)
Licence: NICE guidance (cited)
Pigmentary Disorders Society, India — Indian Journal of Dermatology
Used for: Melasma and dark-spot advice, written for South Asian skin
Licence: Open access article (cited)
Indian dermatologists' Delphi consensus — open access in PubMed Central
Used for: Sunscreen advice for hot, humid climates
Licence: Open access article (cited)
Cochrane
Used for: How well melasma and acne treatments work, across many trials
Licence: Abstracts (cited)
- In use
European Commission
Used for: Safe limits: retinol max 0.3% on the face, alpha-arbutin max 2%
Licence: EU law
European Commission
Used for: Ingredient safety and strengths
Licence: EU public documents
Cosmetic Ingredient Review, USA
Used for: Ingredient safety
Licence: Cited
U.S. Food and Drug Administration
Used for: Sunscreen filters
Licence: Public domain
Mercury in skin-lightening creams, Bangladesh (2025)
In useEnvironment and Social Development Organization (ESDO), Bangladesh
Used for: The fairness-cream question and the mercury warning
Licence: NGO report (cited)
Where the questions come from
Misery L. et al., University of Brest, France; cut-offs: Legeas C. et al., Acta Dermato-Venereologica 2021
Used for: Ten symptoms that measure sensitive skin; above 13 means sensitive
Licence: Published scale (cited)
Fitzpatrick T. B., Archives of Dermatology 1988
Used for: The question on whether your skin burns or tans in the sun
Licence: Published scale (cited)
Skin image datasets
- Used for testing
Madarkar S. S. et al., NeurIPS 2025 Datasets and Benchmarks — Harvard Dataverse
Used for: 5,450 images of Indian skin: we check how well our photo read works on brown skin and when it says to see a doctor
Licence: CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
- Being added
Groh M. et al., CVPR Workshops 2021
Used for: Checking it works equally well across skin tones
Licence: CC BY-NC-SA 3.0
- Being added
Wu X. et al., Nankai University — ICCV 2019
Used for: Grading acne as mild, moderate or severe
Licence: Free for academic use (credited)
- Being added
Moon J. et al., 2024 (on NVIDIA's FFHQ faces)
Used for: Finding fine lines and wrinkles
Licence: CC BY-NC-SA 4.0
SCIN — Skin Condition Image Network
Being addedWard A. et al., Google Research and Stanford Medicine — JAMA Network Open 2024
Used for: Spotting when to see a doctor in everyday phone photos
Licence: SCIN Data Use License
Tools and ingredient databases
- In use
Google
Used for: Reading the photo (with your permission); our own rules make the final call
Licence: Google API terms
- Being added
Google
Used for: Checking the photo is clear and finding each part of the face
Licence: Apache 2.0
- Being added
Monk E., Harvard University (with Google)
Used for: Checking results are fair for every skin tone
Licence: CC BY 4.0
- Being added
U.S. National Library of Medicine (NIH)
Used for: Matching other names of the same ingredient
Licence: Public domain
- Being added
Open Beauty Facts contributors
Used for: Filling in product ingredient lists
Licence: ODbL / DbCL
European Commission
Used for: Correct INCI names and functions
Licence: EU database (cited)
The studies behind each ingredient
Strongest evidence first. Where evidence is weak, we say so.
AdapaleneStrong evidence3▾
AHAStrong evidence3▾
- Stiller MJ et al. Arch Dermatol 1996;132:631-6 (74 women, 22 wk, 8% GA/LA vs vehicle)
- Kaidbey K et al. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed 2003
- Tang SC, Yang JH. Molecules 2018 AHA review (PMC5849239)
Azelaic acidStrong evidence4▾
Benzoyl peroxideStrong evidence2▾
CeramidesStrong evidence3▾
Chemical sunscreenStrong evidence4▾
- SCCS/1657/23 MCE (Mexoryl 400) 2023 — safe <=3%
- SCCS/1625/20 Octocrylene — safe <=10%; SCCS Benzophenone-3 2021
- FDA 2026 bemotrizinol OTC monograph
- SCCS opinions register
FragranceStrong evidence2▾
GlycerinStrong evidence2▾
- Darlenski R, Fluhr JW, Surber C. Br J Dermatol 2008;159:23-34
- Fluhr JW et al. Acta Derm Venereol 1999 (faster barrier repair)
Hyaluronic acidStrong evidence2▾
- Pavicic T et al. J Drugs Dermatol 2011;10(9):990-1000 (76 women, 60 d, 5 molecular weights)
- Bukhari SNA et al. / Draelos review 2023
HydroquinoneStrong evidence3▾
Mineral sunscreenStrong evidence3▾
NiacinamideStrong evidence4▾
- Wohlrab J, Kreft D. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2014
- Bissett DL et al. Dermatol Surg 2005 (5% niacinamide RCT, 12 wk)
- Draelos ZD et al. J Cosmet Laser Ther 2006 (2% niacinamide, sebum)
- doaj.org · e97a19d4f56c4a5c97a6f6ea3889fa2d
PanthenolStrong evidence2▾
PropanediolStrong evidence3▾
- CIR Butylene Glycol et al. J Am Coll Toxicol 1985;4(5):223-48 (safe as used)
- CIR 2018 Alkane Diols incl. Propanediol
- CIR Propylene Glycol amended 2012
RetinolStrong evidence6▾
SPFStrong evidence4▾
- ISO 24444:2019 (in vivo SPF)
- ISO 24442:2022 (in vivo UVA/PPD)
- ISO 24443:2021 (in vitro UVA-PF)
- Japan JCIA PA method revision
Tranexamic acidStrong evidence5▾
Vitamin CStrong evidence3▾
AdenosineModerate evidence3▾
- Abella ML. Int J Cosmet Sci 2006;28:447-51 (126 women, 2-month RCT)
- Yonsei 2013 split-face (no adenosine effect vs collagen)
- Microneedle vs cream 2018
Alcohol denat.Moderate evidence1▾
AllantoinModerate evidence1▾
Alpha-arbutinModerate evidence3▾
BakuchiolModerate evidence2▾
- Dhaliwal S et al. Br J Dermatol 2019;180(2):289-96 (44 adults, 12-wk double-blind RCT vs 0.5% retinol)
- Chaudhuri RK, Bojanowski K. Int J Cosmet Sci 2014
Centella asiaticaModerate evidence3▾
CysteamineModerate evidence2▾
Green teaModerate evidence3▾
- Yoon JY et al. J Invest Dermatol 2013 (split-face RCT, 1% and 5% EGCG, 8 wk)
- Saric S et al. Antioxidants 2016 systematic review
- Katiyar SK. Arch Biochem Biophys 2011 (photoprotection)
HoneyModerate evidence3▾
Iron oxidesModerate evidence2▾
Kojic acidModerate evidence3▾
- Deo KS et al. Indian J Dermatol 2013 (80 melasma pts, 4 arms)
- Garcia A, Fulton JE. Dermatol Surg 1996
- CIR Final Report Int J Toxicol 2010;29(6 Suppl):244S-273S; SCCS/1637/21
Licorice rootModerate evidence3▾
- Amer M, Metwalli M. Int J Dermatol 2000 (liquiritin 20%, 20 melasma pts, split-face)
- Yokota T et al. Pigment Cell Res 1998 (glabridin mechanism)
- J Cosmet Sci 2023 glabridin split-face
PeptidesModerate evidence3▾
- Robinson LR et al. Int J Cosmet Sci 2005;27:155-60 (93 women, 12 wk, pal-KTTKS)
- Pickart L, Margolina A. Int J Mol Sci 2018
- Schagen SK. Cosmetics 2017 peptide review
ProbioticsModerate evidence4▾
- Gueniche A et al. Exp Dermatol 2010;19:e1-8 (B. longum lysate, reactive skin, randomised)
- Gueniche A et al. Br J Dermatol 2008 (Vitreoscilla 5% cream, 75 AD pts, double-blind)
- Galactomyces review J Clin Med 2022
- Galactomyces AhR, Clin Exp Dermatol 2015
PropolisModerate evidence3▾
- Oliveira RN et al. Arch Dermatol Res 2023 systematic review + meta-analysis (ulcers)
- Kurek-Gorecka A et al. Pharmaceuticals 2022 review
- Patch-test multicentre study, Acta Derm Venereol 2021
Salicylic acidModerate evidence3▾
Snail mucinModerate evidence3▾
- Fabi SG et al. J Drugs Dermatol 2013;12(4):453-7 (25 women, 14-wk split-face RCT)
- Tribo-Boixareu MJ et al. J Drugs Dermatol 2009 (open-label photoaging)
- Mouse wound model 2021
SqualaneModerate evidence1▾
ThiamidolModerate evidence2▾
UreaModerate evidence2▾
Beta-glucanWeak evidence2▾
- Pillai R et al. Int J Cosmet Sci 2005;27:292 (27 subjects, 8 wk, industry)
- Du B et al. Carbohydr Polym 2014 review
Birch sapWeak evidence2▾
EGFWeak evidence3▾
- Kim HK et al. J Cosmet Dermatol 2015 (rhEGF cream, 29 pts, 8 wk open-label)
- Schouest JM et al. J Drugs Dermatol 2012 (EGF serum, 29 pts)
- Medicina Clinica (Engl) 2016 rhEGF commentary
HeartleafWeak evidence2▾
- Chonnam Med J 2010 (fibroblast model)
- Korean RAW264.7 macrophage studies (iNOS/COX-2/NF-kB)
MugwortWeak evidence3▾
PDRNWeak evidence1▾
PHAWeak evidence3▾
- Bernstein EF et al. Dermatol Surg 2004 (in vitro UV)
- Green BA, Yu RJ, Van Scott EJ. Clin Dermatol 2009 (PHA review)
- Hunt MJ, Barnetson RS. Australas J Dermatol 1992 (gluconolactone vs BPO, acne)
Rice extractWeak evidence2▾
- Fermented rice bran, Front Pharmacol 2025 (mouse + in vitro)
- Manosroi A et al. Pharm Biol 2012 (rice bran gel, small human study)
Tea tree oilWeak evidence3▾
- Bassett IB et al. Med J Aust 1990;153:455-8
- Enshaieh S et al. Indian J Dermatol Venereol Leprol 2007 (placebo-controlled 5% gel)
- BfR opinion on undiluted tea tree oil
Zinc PCAWeak evidence3▾
- Gupta M et al. Dermatol Res Pract 2014
- Brandt S. J Drugs Dermatol 2013 (SORT B)
- Cervantes J et al. Dermatol Ther 2018 meta-analysis (zinc and acne)