Pimple patches: how they work, when to use them, when they will not help

The pimple patch is Korea's small invention the whole world adopted. It works for one simple reason: it keeps your hands off the spot.

How it works

Hydrocolloid, the material in wound dressings, absorbs fluid. On a spot with a head, the pus and fluid lift into the patch (it turns white) and the spot flattens. The moist environment heals faster and the patch stops picking, which is the real cause of marks.

Which spots it works on

• Whiteheads, spots with a head: yes, the best case.
• A spot you just popped: yes; covered, it leaves less of a mark.
• Deep, swollen, painful, no head (cystic): no. There is nothing to draw out; a microneedle patch helps a little, but frequent ones need a dermatologist.
• Blackheads: no.

How to apply

1. 1Washed, dry skin: no toner, serum or cream underneath, or it will not stick.
2. 2A patch a little larger than the spot, centred and pressed.
3. 3Six to eight hours (overnight is easiest). Swap it once it turns white and swollen.
4. 4After removal, a light moisturiser; sunscreen in the morning.

Daytime wear

Ultra-thin patches almost disappear under makeup. Sunscreen goes over the patch, not under.

What a patch does not do

It does not stop new spots forming; that is the routine's job: acne guide. It does not lift old marks.

Picks

• Night patch: Anua KDH Ultra-Thin Spot Cover Patch Set - 55 patches
• A whole red area: the pads: Abib Heartleaf Spot Pad Calming Touch 80pads
• The daily routine (fewer spots): COSRX Salicylic Acid Daily Gentle Cleanser 150ml, COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid 100ml
• The marks afterwards: SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Tone Brightening Dark Spot Ampoule Pad 60 pads 130 ml

Sources

• Hydrocolloid dressings have decades of clinical use in wound care; small studies on acne show reduced redness and oil.
• American Academy of Dermatology: picking at spots is the main cause of marks and infection.