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Exfoliation: AHA, BHA, PHA Without Overdoing It

Exfoliation is optional. If you do it, start with one exfoliant, at night, once or twice a week; skip it while skin is irritated, and always wear sunscreen the next morning.

Written by the Oliareen editorial teamDermatologist review: pendingLast updated: 6 November 2026How we write

What exfoliation does

Dead cells on the surface shed by themselves. Chemical exfoliants loosen the bonds between them, so skin feels smoother, pores clog less and some marks fade a little faster. Overdo it and you wear down the skin's protective layer.

Which is which

  • AHA (glycolic, lactic, mandelic): water-soluble, works on the surface, for rough texture and unevenness.
  • BHA (salicylic acid): oil-soluble, gets into pores, for blackheads and oily skin.
  • PHA (gluconolactone, lactobionic acid): bigger molecules that enter slowly, so gentler, but not risk-free.
  • Gritty scrubs: sharp particles can cause tiny tears; best kept off the face.

When to skip it

  • Your skin is stinging, red or tight right now.
  • Sunburn, cuts or broken skin.
  • You may have eczema or rosacea-like redness: see a doctor first.
  • You use a prescription retinoid or acne medicine: not without asking the prescriber.
  • Do not start a new exfoliant the week before a wedding or event.

How to start

  • Pick one exfoliant, not several.
  • Use it at night on clean dry skin, once or twice a week to begin.
  • If skin stays comfortable for 2 to 4 weeks, you can build up to 3 times a week. Daily use only for low-strength, gentle formulas on skin that tolerates it.
  • Follow with moisturizer.
  • AHAs make skin more sensitive to sun, so do not skip sunscreen the next morning.
  • If you also use a retinoid, use them on different nights.

Signs you have overdone it

Stinging even with a plain moisturizer, shiny tight "plastic" skin, red patches, peeling or sudden tiny bumps are typical signs. Stop all actives and keep only a gentle cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen for 2 to 4 weeks.

Purging or a reaction?

Ingredients that speed up cell turnover (retinoids, some acids) can bring a few extra breakouts in your usual spots for the first weeks. Bumps in new places, itching, burning or a rash are not purging; that is a reaction, so stop the product.

Questions people ask

Can I use AHA and BHA together?

Some products combine both at low strength. Layering two separate exfoliants on the same night raises the risk of irritation. Start with one.

Is daily exfoliation OK?

Most people do not need it. Very gentle, low-strength formulas suit some tolerant skin daily, but 2 to 3 times a week gives most of the benefit.

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Sources

  1. American Academy of Dermatology — How to safely exfoliate at home
  2. US FDA — Alpha hydroxy acids (sun sensitivity labelling)
  3. Oliareen research base — routines and retention (acid frequency ramp, retinoid + acid spacing)