Understanding Acne Scars

Acne scars are changes in the skin's structure: sunken pits, or raised, firm marks. They differ from colour marks, and creams or serums do not fill pits. The treatments that work are dermatologist procedures, so if you have scars or they are starting to form, seeing a dermatologist is the first advice.

Written by the Oliareen editorial teamDermatologist review: pendingLast updated: 6 November 2026How we write

What a scar is

Deep inflammation damages the collagen under the skin. If healing makes too little collagen, a pit forms (atrophic scar); too much, a raised mark (hypertrophic scar or keloid). This is a change in structure, not colour.

What it can look like

These descriptions are for understanding only; a doctor decides the type and the treatment.

Ice-pick: narrow, deep, like a needle prick.
Boxcar: wider pits with sharp edges.
Rolling: a wave-like uneven surface.
Raised or keloid: firm raised marks, more on the jaw, chest or back; keloid risk is higher on brown skin.

What can contribute

Deep acne such as nodules or cysts.
Treatment started late.
Picking and squeezing.
Family tendency.

What not to assume

There is no evidence that any cream, serum or home mask fills pits.
Not every dark mark is a scar; flat colour marks fade over time.
Even procedures usually improve scars rather than remove them completely.

Common mistakes

Home derma rollers or strong peels; risk of infection, marks and new scars.
Buying costly serums for scars while delaying treatment of active acne.
Lasers or injections from untrained providers.

General skincare support

Bringing active acne under control: preventing new scars matters most.
Daily sunscreen keeps the colour marks around scars from darkening.
A gentle routine and moisturiser: comfortable skin also recovers better after procedures.

Ingredient evidence and limits

Cosmetic ingredients may help the texture and colour of the skin around a scar a little, not the pit itself.

Retinol: may support skin renewal; very little effect on deep scars. Not in pregnancy.
Azelaic acid and niacinamide: for the colour marks around scars.

Dermatologist procedures such as microneedling, lasers, subcision, chemical peels or fillers are chosen by scar type. Some carry a risk of new marks on brown skin, so an experienced doctor matters.

When to see a dermatologist

For scars, the main advice on this page is to see a dermatologist. A cosmetic routine only supports.

Any lasting pit or raised scar you want improved.
Acne is still leaving new scars.
You want to know which procedures are safe for your skin tone.

Simple routine

Morning

1
Gentle cleanser, or just water
If your face is not very oily after the night, water alone is fine in the morning.
2
Light moisturiser (gel or lotion)
Helps skin hold water; lighter textures feel better in the heat.
3
Sunscreen SPF 30 or higher, every day
This step has the strongest evidence for marks; without it, little else works well.

Evening

1
Gentle cleanser
Lifts the day's sweat, dust and sunscreen; no scrubbing needed.
2
Light moisturiser (gel or lotion)
Helps skin hold water; lighter textures feel better in the heat.

General education, not a diagnosis or treatment plan.

Questions people ask

Can a cream remove acne pits?

No. A pit is collagen loss beneath the skin, which creams cannot reach. Dermatologist procedures can improve scars, without a guarantee of full removal.

Is a home derma roller safe?

We do not recommend it. It risks infection, irritation and new marks on brown skin. Microneedling is safer under a doctor's care.

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