Kojic acid Explained

Kojic acid, from fermented rice, helps lighten dark spots; it can irritate, so patch-test first.

Pregnancy: avoidEvidence: moderate

Label names (INCI): Kojic Acid, Kojic Dipalmitate

Written by the Oliareen editorial teamDermatologist review: pendingHow we write

What it does

Binds copper in the pigment enzyme to reduce melanin; also antioxidant.

Often discussed for

This doesn't mean everyone with these needs it.

Concerns

Pigmentation

Skin types

How to approach it

If you're new to it

Start one new product at a time and patch test first: a little on the side of the jaw for a few days. Keep the rest of the routine simple.

General education, not a diagnosis or treatment plan.

Works well with

Examples of common pairings, not guaranteed combinations.

Use carefully with

Stacking several actives raises the risk of irritation. If you're on any prescribed medicine, ask your doctor before adding an active.

Several exfoliants (if your skin is sensitive)
Irritant and sensitiser; patch-test
Unstable (browns)
Pregnancy: avoid (precaution)
Mild photosensitivity — SPF

Possible reactions

Stop if burning doesn't settle, or if you get a red rash, itching, swelling or peeling. Swelling of the face, lips or eyes, or trouble breathing, needs urgent medical care.

When to see a doctor

Evidence and timing

Evidence: Evidence: moderate
Time to see a change (weeks): 8-12

Evidence comes from studies of specific formulas and strengths. Your product may behave differently.

Sources

Deo KS et al. Indian J Dermatol 2013 (80 melasma pts, 4 arms)
Garcia A, Fulton JE. Dermatol Surg 1996
CIR Final Report Int J Toxicol 2010;29(6 Suppl):244S-273S; SCCS/1637/21