Understanding Fine Lines & Ageing
With age, skin loses collagen, becomes drier and thinner, and lines appear where we smile or frown. This is natural, not a flaw to fix. Sun protection is the best-proven support; some ingredients can soften the look of fine lines a little, with very little effect on deep folds.
Written by the Oliareen editorial teamDermatologist review: pendingLast updated: 6 November 2026How we write
What it is
From the late twenties, skin slowly makes less collagen and oil, and renewal slows. Fine lines appear first beside the eyes and on the forehead, more on dry days. Brown skin usually shows lines later, while uneven tone tends to show earlier.
Ageing without fear
Lines with age are natural, and keeping them is a perfectly fine choice. This page is about keeping skin comfortable and healthy, not "stopping age".
What can contribute
- Age and genes.
- Sun: responsible for a large share of visible skin ageing.
- Smoking and pollution.
- Dryness, which makes lines look deeper.
- Hormonal change at menopause.
What not to assume
- No cream has evidence of working "like Botox".
- Expensive does not mean more effective.
- Dryness lines and deep folds differ; the first often improves a lot with moisturiser alone.
Common mistakes
- Starting high-strength retinol and acids together.
- Relying on night serums while skipping sunscreen.
- Unknown injections or "face-lift" creams at salons.
General skincare support
- Daily sunscreen: the best-proven way to limit sun damage.
- A good moisturiser; skin gets drier with age.
- Optionally one active at night, started slowly.
- Patience: fine lines take 8–24 weeks to show change.
Ingredient evidence and limits
Some ingredients have evidence for softening fine lines, not deep folds.
- Retinol: the most evidence; in one study 0.4% retinol improved fine lines over 24 weeks. The EU caps face products at 0.3%. Start 2–3 nights a week; not in pregnancy.
- Peptides: some small studies, mostly company-run; evidence is weaker than the marketing.
- Bakuchiol: described as a gentler retinol alternative; evidence is still small.
- Vitamin C and niacinamide: antioxidant support and some help with texture.
- Hyaluronic acid and glycerin: draw in water so lines look softer for a while.
When to see a dermatologist
- You are considering prescription retinoids or procedures.
- Retinol keeps irritating your skin.
Simple routine
Morning
- 1Gentle cleanser, or just water
If your face is not very oily after the night, water alone is fine in the morning.
- 2Moisturiser (cream)
Puts back both water and oil where skin is dry; a richer cream works well at night.
- 3Sunscreen, SPF 30 or higher
Sun deepens marks and irritates skin; about two finger-lengths for face and neck, reapply every 2 hours outdoors.
Evening
- 1Gentle cleanser
Lifts the day's sweat, dust and sunscreen; no scrubbing needed.
- 2Retinol, starting 2–3 nights a week
A pea-sized amount; mild irritation in weeks 2–4 is common; not in pregnancy.
- 3Moisturiser (cream)
Puts back both water and oil where skin is dry; a richer cream works well at night.
General education, not a diagnosis or treatment plan.
Questions people ask
At what age should I start retinol?
There is no set age. Many start in their late twenties or thirties if they have a goal and their skin tolerates it. Sunscreen matters more at any age.
Does bakuchiol work like retinol?
One small study showed similar results, but evidence is still limited. It may irritate less; safety data in pregnancy is limited too.
Should my routine change after forty?
Often a slightly richer moisturiser and milder cleanser help, because skin gets drier. Sunscreen stays just as important. Add new things one at a time.
Read next
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Start the skin testSources
- Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Arch Dermatol 2007
- EU Regulation 2024/996 (retinol and alpha-arbutin limits in face products)
- Randhawa M et al. Daily use of a facial broad-spectrum sunscreen over one year. Dermatol Surg 2016
- Fu JJ et al. A randomised controlled comparison of a cosmetic regimen with niacinamide and peptides vs tretinoin. Br J Dermatol 2010
- Dhaliwal S et al. Prospective randomised double-blind comparison of bakuchiol and retinol. Br J Dermatol 2019