Ingredients, Without the Hype
Understand what an ingredient may do and what it cannot promise.
One ingredient name can't tell you how a whole product will work: strength, formula and your own skin all change the result. Every page says how strong the evidence is and where to be careful.
By concern
47 ingredients
A
- AdapaleneAdapalene is a strongly recommended acne retinoid that also helps post-acne marks; it is a medicine, so use it as a doctor directs, wear sunscreen by day, and skip it in pregnancy.Pregnancy: avoidEvidence: strongRead
- AdenosineAdenosine is Korea's standard anti-wrinkle ingredient; one placebo-controlled trial showed smoother eye lines in 2 months, another found no effect.Evidence: moderateRead
- AHAAHAs are a group of exfoliating acids (glycolic, lactic, mandelic) that work on surface texture, depending on strength and formula. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: strongRead
- Alcohol denat.Alcohol in small amounts is a harmless carrier; alcohol-heavy toners can dry and irritate — avoid if your skin is dry or sensitive.Evidence: moderateRead
- AllantoinAllantoin is a gentle skin-soothing ingredient recognised by regulators as a skin protectant.Evidence: moderateRead
- Alpha arbutinAlpha arbutin is a cosmetic ingredient used to improve the look of uneven tone and dark spots. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Pregnancy: avoidEvidence: moderateRead
- Azelaic acidAzelaic acid is used in some acne and pigmentation contexts; strength and regulation vary by country. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: strongRead
B
- BakuchiolBakuchiol is a plant-derived compound being studied for some visible signs of ageing; its evidence is less established than retinoids'. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Pregnancy: avoidEvidence: moderateRead
- Benzoyl peroxideBenzoyl peroxide is one of the two best-proven acne ingredients; stronger is not better, and less irritation matters on brown skin, where irritation leaves marks.Evidence: strongRead
- Beta-glucanBeta-glucan is a soothing, water-binding sugar from oats or yeast; good for hydration and calming, with limited evidence beyond that.Evidence: limitedRead
- Birch sapBirch sap is a mineral-rich plant water that hydrates; lab studies suggest barrier support, but there are no human trials yet.Evidence: limitedRead
C
- Centella asiaticaCentella asiatica (gotu kola, cica) is a plant ingredient used in soothing-focused formulas; the evidence depends on the extract. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: moderateRead
- CeramidesCeramides are lipids your skin makes itself; they're used in moisturisers that support the skin barrier. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: strongRead
- Chemical sunscreenModern filters like Tinosorb S/M and Uvinul A Plus give strong, light-feeling UVA+UVB protection with very low irritation — look for them in Korean and European sunscreens.Evidence: strongRead
- CysteamineCysteamine is a wash-off cream that faded melasma better than placebo in trials; results take about 4 months.Evidence: moderateRead
E
F
G
- GlycerinGlycerin is a very common humectant that draws in and holds water in cosmetic formulas. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: strongRead
- Green teaGreen tea is an antioxidant that helps calm oily, blemish-prone skin; a small split-face trial showed fewer acne lesions in 8 weeks.Evidence: moderateRead
H
- HeartleafHeartleaf is a Korean soothing herb with lab-proven anti-inflammatory effects; good for calming oily, blemish-prone skin, though human trials are still missing.Evidence: limitedRead
- HoneyHoney hydrates and has natural antibacterial properties; royal jelly is nourishing but its skin benefits are not yet well studied.Evidence: moderateRead
- Hyaluronic acidHyaluronic acid is a humectant: in a suitable formula it helps the top layers of skin hold on to water. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: strongRead
- HydroquinoneHydroquinone is a prescription lightener, never a shop recommendation; used without a dermatologist it can leave permanent dark staining.Pregnancy: avoidPrescription onlyEvidence: strongRead
I
K
L
M
- Mineral sunscreenZinc oxide and titanium dioxide are gentle mineral sunscreens that protect against UVA and UVB and are the top choice for sensitive skin and pregnancy.Evidence: strongRead
- MugwortMugwort is a traditional Korean calming herb; lab studies show anti-inflammatory activity, but human trials are lacking.Pregnancy: avoidEvidence: limitedRead
N
P
- PanthenolPanthenol (pro-vitamin B5) is a humectant and conditioning ingredient found in many moisture-supporting formulas. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: strongRead
- PDRNPDRN is popular in K-beauty for repair, but evidence for creams is limited to one small study; think of it as a pleasant extra, not a treatment.Evidence: limitedRead
- PeptidesPeptides are a large family; their cosmetic evidence depends on which peptide and which preparation. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: moderateRead
- PHAPHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are used in exfoliating formulas; their larger molecules tend to sting less than AHAs for many people. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: limitedRead
- ProbioticsFermented and probiotic-derived ingredients support the skin barrier and calm reactivity; some types have small clinical trials behind them.Evidence: moderateRead
- PropanediolPropanediol and butylene glycol are gentle moisturising solvents that help other ingredients absorb; they are well-studied and safe.Evidence: strongRead
- PropolisPropolis is a bee-made antioxidant and antibacterial extract; helpful for blemish-prone and dull skin, but patch-test first — some people are allergic.Evidence: moderateRead
R
- RetinolRetinol is a cosmetic retinoid (from the vitamin A family) used in some formulas for visible ageing or acne-related concerns; it is not for pregnancy. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Pregnancy: avoidEvidence: strongRead
- Rice extractRice extracts give antioxidants and gentle hydration for a softer, brighter look; evidence is early-stage.Evidence: limitedRead
S
- Salicylic acid (BHA)Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that helps clear oil and dead cells inside pores; it's used for clogged pores and some acne concerns. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: moderateRead
- Snail mucinSnail mucin is a hydrating, soothing ingredient; one small clinical trial showed firmer, smoother skin after about 3 months.Evidence: moderateRead
- SqualaneSqualane is an emollient oil that softens skin and supports comfortable moisturising. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: moderateRead
T
- Tea tree oilTea tree oil, always diluted in a product, can reduce acne spots, more slowly than benzoyl peroxide but often with less dryness; patch-test, it can irritate.Evidence: limitedRead
- ThiamidolThiamidol faded melasma about as well as a prescription hydroquinone cream in a 3-month trial; it is used with daily sunscreen.Evidence: moderateRead
- Tranexamic acidTranexamic acid (TXA) has been studied in some pigmentation contexts, including melasma; forms and evidence differ. Evidence varies by formula and concern.Evidence: strongRead
U
V
Z
General education, not a diagnosis or treatment plan.